The transmission on these V-twins is pretty much bullet proof.

I was stuck and managed to break my shifter gate trying to put it in gear. Managed to get it in gear but it wouldnt stay in and I had to get out of the snow. I pinned the throttle and banged it back into gear every time with that loud clunk.

Still works good 2000miles after. I'd say you need to adjust the shifter or something. Chances are your tranny is still good.

 

my star gear doing this in the mud, the trans gears are not that strong. and once you take the engine apart and split the cases you will learn to take it easy on the trans

 

Disconnect the shift linkage and put it in gear by hand and see what that does.

 

If putting it into gear by hand don't work hit me up. I just went thru the reverse scenario. Could be the star spacer that connects the high/low to the shaft. I have a post on here.

 

 

'03 - prairie 650 engine noise?? (selec 2WD/4WD with diff lock model)

Hello all....new to the site......I am humbled by all the good tips! Thanks!! The issue I have is that I bought the above machine with an engine knock in it when you rev above idle....engine still in running condition & not seized......but obviously needs attention ASAP. This is going to be a father/son project.....so I am looking for advice on where to start; what to look for; do I just pull the engine a replace out a with a used one? do I pull and take engine to a local dealer for rebuild? is it easy enough to pull and rebuild ourselves? I definitely want to hang on to machine for a good amount of time....has only 3300 miles on her and been well kept by original owner. I have about $1K set aside for this project. Thanks in advance!!! Jp

 

Not a real hard job would be best to get a manual look through the inspection an rebuild section an decide if this is something you want to tackle
Personally I would rebuild before buying used

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i would rebuild it myself. but its not for everyone, there would be some taking it to someone to have the cylinders done and spun bearing or something, you wont really know till its torn down what you need and what that costs. you might be able to do it yourself for 1000 if its not too bad but certainly not if you have to have someone else do it

 

very good....thanks for the info.....makes good sense......my biggest concern is that I will miss something critical and after it's back together and I fire it up.....the issue comes back or worse and all was for not. I am OK with replacing parts that are bad.......but do not have the facilities to seat valves.....adjust cams......do timing ......check bearing tolerances....remove & press bearings in to place if needed.......might be breaking off more than I could chew so to speak. A used engine is anywhere from $800 - $1200 the way it looks.....might just be easiest.

Would I save some dough by removing it myself & taking to a shop to have the rebuild done and then just throw it back in or would they need the machine to fully make it operational again??

thanks again!

Jeff

 

my problem would be you dont know the state of the engine you are buying, could be good now but alot of people beat them and might be bad again before too long. you could call around and see what people want to do it then make up your mind.if you do it yourself you have to take the cylinders and some lower end stuff to the machine shop anyway and they will tell you what is savable and what isnt. just get the kawi manual and go through step by step, cant be in a hurry and cant be too clean either, and label stuff in groups as you go through each step. you need a flywheel puller, primary tool, maybe a bearing puller dont remember needing a press but i have one at work so if you do it might not stick out in my memory. but there are tons of folks that have them that will do that individual step for a few bucks

 

calling on experience

I am also seeking to pick an experienced persons brain that works on or has worked on or been around ATV engines or the likes for an honest opinion.....if you heard an engine run with a knock in it as you give it some gas.....what would be the top 3 or 4 items that you would likely look at if you were gonna tear the engine down that could cause the noise??

thnx

Jp

 

Primary clutch if its a cvt, Crank and crank bearings, worn pistons and or cylinders

 

awesome....thanks for the reply. I talked with the original owner & he was advised about the cvt drive system & primary clutch potential for noise from a friend....so he had that system rebuilt including a NEW belt and that was not the noise.....so I believe it is going to be an engine issue for sure.

thnx again

Jeff

 

make sure you label everything as to what cylinder it came from too you dont know what you need to reuse. especially the cams

 

awesome info.....thanks!!!!! I do have flywheel pullers and bearing pullers from other work I have done. Machine has 3300 miles on it and the owner kept it in a heated garage and didn't mistreat the machine at all since new.......he is an older fella that used it for wood hauling & deer hunting....so I am confident in it not being "beat" as he has stated to me at purchase. I am under the impression from your comments, that as long as I would be tearing the engine down.....the cylinders should be honed or bored out, new rings installed, valves cleaned & polished & re-seated perhaps, etc.

Sounds more like a motor rebuild than just fixing the noise issue......am I thinking right here???

Also, do chains need to be replaced?? any lifter adjustments?? Do they make a rebuild kit per say with gaskets, rings, bearings, chains, etc??

If I am going to a cost evaluation, guess I better know what to be buying if I do this myself full bore with my son.

thanks!

Jp

 

Yes you should replace the chains, all 4 of them. Oem are the only chains that i know of. You can get aftermarket gasket kits. Rings you will have to buy separate. Boring the cylinders would be a good idea while its apart

 

the beat one that i was talking about was if you bought a used one. 3300 is sort of a point where some of it might be fine. it depends how much this previous guy changed the oil and cleaned the rad, that is thing most folks dont do and they wonder why it runs hot all the time. i believe the manual has inspection guides and specs while tearing things down on what to look for and measurement specs for things that need it. my prairie has 4000 on the original everything. i looked it over when i broke the trans gears and most everything looked fine. but something is wrong with yours if its making noise so that is going to have to be found and then you will know how much you have to replace. the noise is it more of a clank type noise or a tick? dont know about the gaskets i have not come across one, i had to buy individual parts from kawi

 

engine rebuild status

Hi all....I have been fortunate enough to come across a fella that has figured out why all these 650 prairie & 700 brute force 2 cylinder engines fail with rod bearing issues when they really should not. It is a bit involved to go into here on the forum, but he has been a wealth of information and I am very confident on doing this rebuild myself now not only to get the bike back out and working, but to NEVER have the rod bearing failure happen again. I'd be glad to share if you are interested. His success rate on no reoccurrences of failure on over 150 rebuilds is 100%.

I am at jbtdistributing@yahoo.com ...... all the best & safe travels while your out there!

Jp

 

Hi all....I have been fortunate enough to come across a fella that has figured out why all these 650 prairie & 700 brute force 2 cylinder engines fail with rod bearing issues when they really should not. It is a bit involved to go into here on the forum, but he has been a wealth of information and I am very confident on doing this rebuild myself now not only to get the bike back out and working, but to NEVER have the rod bearing failure happen again. I'd be glad to share if you are interested. His success rate on no reoccurrences of failure on over 150 rebuilds is 100%.

I am at jbtdistributing@yahoo.com ...... all the best & safe travels while your out there!

Jp

to share the info by Email you have to type it anyway,,,
so lets hear it...

please...

 

where do you get the sets from? do you have or link or something

 

basics

the basics are: Cause - tolerances of the main bearings to the crankshaft are too tight from factory & OEM bearings are not of high enough quality to withstand lack of lubrication issues. Solution - upon rebuild use automotive grade bearings on rods and adjust tolerances by .001 - .002 as needed on crankshaft. Use highest quality, non-synthetic oil in crankcase going forward. Always, always, always keep radiator clean & stay current on anti-freeze to maximize & maintain proper cooling.

Hope this helps......

Jp

 

the basics are: Cause - tolerances of the main bearings to the crankshaft are too tight from factory & OEM bearings are not of high enough quality to withstand lack of lubrication issues. Solution - upon rebuild use automotive grade bearings on rods and adjust tolerances by .001 - .002 as needed on crankshaft. Use highest quality, non-synthetic oil in crankcase going forward. Always, always, always keep radiator clean & stay current on anti-freeze to maximize & maintain proper cooling.

Hope this helps......

Jp

thanks man...