I don't know about the IRS model but if it's an sra just pull those inner side covers under the front fenders to give access, it's tight and a pain in the ass though. For the rear pull the seat, CVT exhaust snork and battery.


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I don't know about the IRS model but if it's an sra just pull those inner side covers under the front fenders to give access, it's tight and a pain in the ass though. For the rear pull the seat, CVT exhaust snork and battery.


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Hey thanks!
What is a IRS model or SRA?

So, what I hear you saying is that if I follow the manual, it is more work getting off the tupperware, but easier to do the valves?

And if I leave the front fender tupperware on its only a small hand that fits?

 

i just remove -left front tire, air box an carbs, left side panel an battery, its tight an a pita, but you can do it, hopefully i will be doing mine for the first time in the frame, at 690mi complete new motor,1270mi new top end(water damage), 1380mi new top an bottom rebuild(water an failure to replace rod bearings at 1270mi)now at 1700+, time for values very soon ,unless i screw up agian

 

IRS is independent rear suspension, sra solid rear axle.

Tupperware on = PITA
Tupperware off = a little less PITA

I have big hands so they do fit lol.


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IRS is independent rear suspension, sra solid rear axle.

Tupperware on = PITA
Tupperware off = a little less PITA

I have big hands so they do fit lol.


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Perfect!
Ya, I have the IRS if it matters.
I'm gonna take the shortcut and see if any wrenches start flying!!
Thanks Kawboy1, good info and good help.

 

I should adjust my valves, but have no idea how. Id have to find really good instrutions with pics somewhere lol

 

After 100 hrs. my 650 began to be hard to start. Changed plugs and I'm almost certain this is because of the valves.
I have a second 650 that has 40 hrs. on it and it fires off instantly, cold, hot doesn't matter.
The valves on these twins need to be adjusted periodically I believe.

Do a search, there is a link to a video. Should be GTG.

 

I always take the front plastic off; I hate working blind. I find that working blind sometimes leads to wrenches flying randomly around the shop!

 

Valve Adjustment, Really?

Yeah, so.........................
Just finished my first valve adjustment. It's a good thing I'm not a drinking man or I would be a fish right now!!!
Somebody needs to edit the Pics posted on the forum about checking to make sure you are not 180° out.

Pulling all the tupperware was a pain enough, but getting to the valves?
Really?

I will post pics tonight after work.
NOW I know why the dealer wants $150.00 to do the job.

 

Pic Heavy !

Next time should go easier.
Pulling all the Tupperware was definitely alot easier access for me.

Took me 2 hrs. to get to here:

See Attached Thumbnails below


Then you get to these for the front INTAKE:Hope you have small hands

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v514/hisfive/Brute%20Force/DSC04120.jpg

SMALLER hands to get to here for EXHAUST:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v514/hisfive/Brute%20Force/DSC04114.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v514/hisfive/Brute%20Force/DSC04122.jpg

The rear cylinder valves are not bad:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v514/hisfive/Brute%20Force/DSC04118.jpg

You gotta have one of these:
.006" for intake and .008" for exhaust

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v514/hisfive/Brute%20Force/DSC04128.jpg

*** I have recieved numerous PM's on where to buy these, you can get them here:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&navType=type&webTypeId=140&prodFamilyId=23985&listingId=&sizeAttr=5759

Make absolutely certain you are NOT 180° out by watching the front cylinder intakes close, THEN continue to watch for your TF mark.
Same for the rear; TR.

Put back just enough to test fire it. Airbox etc. and bingo, one push of the starter, dead cold, she started immediately. Runs like a new scooter again.
Now, where's that bottle of red wine?

 

Looks good so far, and nice pics as well.

 

All Back Together

All Back Together!

My lovely wife of 28 yrs. is under all that clothing.

 

I have 115 hrs on one and 75 hrs on my wifes, they both tick a bit when warm but start at the touch of the starter button so I don't think they need to be looked at just yet. Do they loosen up or tighten up over time? I'm thinking loosen!

 

They tend to go tight; the valve wears against the seat or the seat wears, and that takes the valve lash lower.

 

Thanks for the pics and write up. I bought my 650 used from a dealer (someone traded it in) with 143 hours. While I don't hear any ticking I have to play with the throttle and the choke for a good three minutes when it's cold before it idles smoothly.

 

Then you have your work cut out for you.

 

Oh. That's good to know. I thought I had a problem child.


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looks like im gonna have to do this also.
my 06 650i takes forever to start. sometimes it takes so long i will have to jump it cuz the batt dies.
but just recently i have noticed if it starts to take too long to get to start i just use the pull cord a few times and it starts right up.