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kill switches / cdi's

1.1K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  xchamp  
#1 ·
i think i ask this awhile back but never dug deeper into it but now i need it.. :p
when hooking up the pro armor kill switches i know some of my buddies hooked them straight up to the key switch with the dynateks and they worked.. but can i do that with the vdi and they still work right?
how did you guys hook them up that are running them?
 
#3 ·
I think Camo just posted a topic about this in the last week. Do a search. I tried hooking up mine (not a pro armour) directly to the VDI and nothing, hooked it to the ignition wire and it worked :eek:
 
#4 ·
that was easy enough.. ill give it a shot and see what i come up with.. thats the same kill switch im using too.. so hopefully it works..
 
#5 ·
xchamp...if your's didn't work then I'd imagine yours is a normally closed switch. You need a normally open switch with 12v powered to one side of it so when you pull the strap, the switch sends 12v to the orange wire on the Copperhead and kills it.

A normally closed switch in the ignition circuit will work well because when you pull the cord, it cuts power to the ignition switch and kills it that way.


A TEST TO SEE WHAT TYPE OF SWITCH YOU HAVE...
Hook up one side of the kill switch to a (+)Bat and your test light to the (-)Bat. Touch your test light to the free wire on the switch. If power goes through the kill switch with the cord plugged in, it is a normally closed switch. If it lights up after the cord is pulled, you have a normally open kill switch.
 
#6 ·
xchamp...if your's didn't work then I'd imagine yours is a normally closed switch. You need a normally open switch with 12v powered to one side of it so when you pull the strap, the switch sends 12v to the orange wire on the Copperhead and kills it.

A normally closed switch in the ignition circuit will work well because when you pull the cord, it cuts power to the ignition switch and kills it that way.


A TEST TO SEE WHAT TYPE OF SWITCH YOU HAVE...
Hook up one side of the kill switch to a (+)Bat and your test light to the (-)Bat. Touch your test light to the free wire on the switch. If power goes through the kill switch with the cord plugged in, it is a normally closed switch. If it lights up after the cord is pulled, you have a normally open kill switch.
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The box said it was normally open??? Not sure, when I went to hook it up everyone said to do like you said and nothing happened, hooked it to the ignition wire and it worked :blink: It may have been labeled wrong, but I specifically ordered a "open" switch because I was told thats what you needed with an aftermarket cdi??? Dont really care, it works fine and no other problems.